Toledo – The Imperial Capital
In the 11th Century a rather complicated series of events took place. Toledo separated away from the taifa of Cordoba and a Lord of Toledo was established. He requested the assistance of Alphonso VI, King of Castile, in taking Valencia. Alphonso agreed on condition he was given Toledo. So in 1085 ownership of Toledo changed again without bloodshed.
It is the next period, between 1085 and the expulsion of the Jews in 1492 that Toledo blossomed. Alfonso VI had promised to respect Muslims and their property, language and religion. Consequently, after 1085, most stayed in Toledo living side by side with Christians, Mozarabs and Jews. This multicultural society not only flourished it became the gateway between the civilised world of the Moors and the mediaeval world of northern and central Europe. Scholars went to Toledo to study as it became known for its university that was, properly, a school of translation. Famous translators included Gerard of Cremona, John of Seville, Adelard of Bath, Robert of Chester and Michael Scot. The books and manuscripts being translated into Arabic and Latin were the Greek works on every subject from astronomy to zoology. The Arabic works on agriculture, mathematics and medicine were improved, added to, and translated word for word into Latin. Some religious Hebrew manuscripts were also translated. These books became the foundation of many subjects taught in schools and universities today. It must have been an exciting time.
In 1226 Fernando III and the Archbishop Rodrigo Ximenez de Rada decided to build the cathedral that still stands today as the only true Gothic building in Toledo. Once again the tourist board fail to inform visitors of any of its highlights. Apart from being a wonderful example of Gothic architecture it houses probably the best collection of works by El Greco in the world. Tucked away in a cloister is an unexplained vehicle. It looks very much as though the builders forgot to take it with them when they finished the building.
It was during this prosperous period that Toledo swords and armour became famous throughout the world. Sword making had a tradition in Toledo dating back to 500 BC when Iberian blacksmiths forged the fearsome falcate. Hannibal adopted the design for his own armies and the Romans later used this short stabbing sword. The quality of the huge swords of the mediaeval period impressed the Arabs who began using the Toledo blacksmiths to manufacture their scimitars. So the reputation of these swords spread. Today the steel comes from Bilbao to be worked in factories around Toledo into replicas of every known type of blade. You will even find a Harry Potter sword.
In 1485, the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella founded the Tribunal of the Inquisition in Toledo and in 1492 ordered the expulsion of the Jews.
Many must have believed that, after over 700 years of acceptance and a place in society, the expulsion would only be temporary. The families simply locked up their houses and departed to spread out all over the known world. They took their door keys with them. Tradition has it that the holder of the keys may still return home to Toledo.
Charles V was crowned in 1519 and Toledo became known as the Imperial Capital. The Renaissance was at its height and many buildings now reflect this style. In 1561 however Phillip II decided, without any announcement or ceremony, to move the capital and court to Madrid. Although the city lost its political position it continued as a centre for religious, artistic and cultural pursuits. It was at this time that Domenico Theotocopoulos, otherwise and fortunately known by the much easier spelt El Greco, the Cretian painter, settled in the city and there painted the majority of his works. Perhaps Philip II could not stand the dark sombre canvases he produced, a case of this city is not big enough for both of us.
It is impossible to wander around the kilometres of streets within the city walls without coming across an ancient mosque, a Gothic cathedral, a Mudejar church, a Romanesque or Visigothic structure, a synagogue or a Renaissance palace all cheek by jowl with houses dating back to the 12th century so it is with something like relief that you will find a river walk where you can enjoy open spaces and tranquillity.
Starting at the south end of the city a river side path takes you around to the western bridge, the Puente de San Martin. On the right are the city walls with just the roofs visible above, on the left the sedately flowing river where herons perch on the crumbling buttresses of the Roman aqueduct and fish swim beneath the Moorish weirs. This walk, combined with the quiet road that surrounds the city, allows you, in two hours or so, to circumnavigate Toledo for, contrary to the impressions gained within the walls, it is not a large place.
The gentle walk allows you to ponder on the fascination of Toledo, why it is unusual. Once you have been there and seen it you will probably find no reason to return. That is not the case with other cities like Seville or Cordoba. Why? The answer is possibly that Toledo has spent centuries unchanged, first the Iberians, then six hundred years with the Romans, followed by nine hundred years of Moors and a combined Christian/Moor dominance and latterly five hundred years since the Catholic Monarchs. It shows no signs of changing much in the near future.